Exploring the Evolution of Antique Rings
Engagement rings are a window into the era they were crafted in. They reflect trends in fashion, technological advancements, class relations, art movements and forms of self-expression.
The birth of engagement rings can be dated back to Ancient Egypt with the emergence of betrothal rings. These tokens were made from natural materials and sometimes featured the recurring symbol of a snake devouring its tail, representing the eternal cycle of love and life. The Ancient Greeks and Romans continued this tradition but started crafting the rings out of iron, while wealthy Romans wore gold betrothal rings outside the house for special occasions. Some Romans even engraved the pieces with sentimental messages, commencing the custom of rings symbolising a union of love.
Although the use of engagement rings has been present ever since the Ancient Egyptians, it wasn’t until the reign of Queen Victoria that they rose as statement pieces with new designs emerging like never before.
Victorian
Jewellery design during the Victorian era reached new heights as the Industrial Revolution and the discovery of diamonds across the British Empire changed the trajectory of jewellery design forever. Metals, diamonds and other precious gemstones were thrust to the forefront of fashion.
Along with industrial advancements, the period saw a flourishing middle-class and an enhanced sense of romance and sentimentality amongst the culture. Queen Victoria’s loving marriage to Prince Albert had a massive influence on the designs of the time, highlighting the role of jewellery in romantic expression.
Victorian engagement rings were deeply rooted in symbolism and passion, with each gemstone and motif holding a specific meaning.
Diamonds = purity, strength, and eternal love.
Emeralds = fertility and rebirth.
Rubies = passion and deep love.
Sapphires = loyalty and trust.
Popular motifs including hearts, knots and flowers emphasised the romantic nature of these rings, differentiating them from other pieces of jewellery.
While Victorian engagement rings can be characterised by their symbolic meanings and various gemstones, they are also known for their intricate designs and can be split into three phases.
Early Victorian (1837-1860): The Romantic Period saw engagement rings adorned with intricate nature-inspired and floral designs. Queen Victoria’s own serpent engagement ring with emerald eyes, revisited the Ancient Egyptian trend and brought it back to prominence. Yellow gold was predominantly used with colourful gemstones, while diamonds were mostly used as accent stones.
Mid-Victorian (1860-1885): During the Grand Period, diamond mines were discovered in South Africa, leading to the increased accessibility and popularity of diamonds in rings. At the same time, Prince Albert’s death in 1861 cast a sombre mood over the nation, resulting in the use of darker gemstones like garnet and amethyst in jewellery. However, the intricate designs and symbolism continued.
Late Victorian (1885-1901): The Aesthetic Period celebrated grace and femininity, marking a return to the more whimsical designs and featured dainty metalwork with plenty of diamonds. During these years, the solitaire diamond ring rose as a popular choice, representing purity and unity.
Edwardian
After 1900, platinum became more widely available, making it the favoured metal of the Edwardian era. Its strength and ductility meant it was perfect for creating thin settings for designs including hearts, bows and stars, supporting the romantic and celestial mood of the era. Diamond cluster rings became popular in this period due to the durable yet elegant setting which platinum provided.
Art Deco
Following the dainty designs of the Edwardian period came Art Deco jewellery. Art Deco emerged as a counter-movement to Art Nouveau, rising in the early 20th Century thanks to the influences of Cubism, Futurism, the Machine Age and, with the discovery of King Tutankhamun’s tomb, Ancient Art.
It was a lavish era involving the rejection of Victorian ideals and the opulence of the Roaring Twenties. Women found a new sense of freedom, exhibited by the Flappers, who embraced voting, driving, drinking, dancing, fashion and makeup. Jewellery became more expressive and showcased bold, geometric designs with contrasting colours.
Platinum and diamonds were used but unusual gemstones such as aquamarine, citrine and jade were added for contrast.
Contemporary Engagement Rings
Today’s engagement rings are made with advanced machinery, meaning that the gemstones are cut differently to the stones found in antique rings. Antique diamonds were mostly hand-cut and went deeper than the machines do now, making vintage diamonds appear smaller yet more sparkly, even when they are the same carat.
The styles of rings have also changed, with a sleek and minimal look being popular now. Straightforward solitaire silhouettes reign supreme, favouring the mass production techniques of the 21st Century.
Why buy an antique ring today?
Modern engagement rings mostly showcase diamonds that are colour graded between D and F, indicating that they have a higher clarity. Antique rings, on the other hand, rarely featured colourless diamonds due to the fewer diamond mines in operation, while the colourless diamonds that did exist have been remade into modern jewellery. This means that an antique diamond with a slightly lower clarity, unnoticeable to the naked eye, may be much cheaper than a modern diamond of the same carat.
While you get more value for money with antique rings, they are also the more sustainable option. Many of today’s engagement rings are mass-produced and some mining practices have faced criticism for human rights abuses. By purchasing an antique ring you are reducing the environmental damage caused by stone extraction and manufacturing.
Antique rings are the ultimate symbol of enduring love, reflecting stories from a bygone era and we think this makes them all the more special as an engagement ring.
How do I know if it’s antique?
The design, craftsmanship and motifs can evidently help determine the era the ring was from, however, it's not a foolproof method. Jewellery stamps and hallmarks are a more reliable way to verify if a ring is truly antique. Since not all rings are hallmarked, taking the ring to a trusted jewellery specialist is also a great way to confirm its antiquity.
We have partnered with an antique dealer to curate a full collection of vintage and antique rings, ranging from Georgian pieces to vintage 1950s rings. For something more personal, we offer antique and vintage mounts that can be set with Fenton-sourced gemstones through our bespoke process.
